Choga

In the pictureA knee-length coat of dark blue velvet is shown on a mannequin. The collar folds outward like a suit lapel, and bands of flowers densely embroidered in metallic thread run along the collar, the front opening and the hem, with touches of red set between the petals. There are embroidered pocket flaps at both sides of the waist; the cuffs are embroidered panels rising in triangles, and from the shoulder seams to the upper arms the sleeves are decorated with motifs hanging downward. A single paisley motif sits on each side of the front hem, and the front opening is formed by two gold bands that meet and run all the way down.

BackgroundThe Met's record describes it as a coat made in India in the late 19th century, of silk and metal-wrapped thread, embroidered. Its back length is 95.3 cm, the shortest of the chogas on this site. It was purchased in 1952 with funds from the Irene Lewisohn Bequest. Velvet has a raised pile, so the same blue can look bright or black depending on the direction of the light. The folded collar and pocket flaps are elements seen in European jackets, so it can be seen as an example of Western tailoring details mixed into an Indian coat. The record does not say, however, in which workshop or for whom it was made.

Puzzle tipThe strong contrast between the blue velvet and the gold embroidery makes it one of the easier patterned garments. First set up the V of the folded collar and the two gold bands of the front opening, then fix the waist height with the two pocket flaps and the length of the arms with the triangular cuff panels. The very top is anchored by the letters WOLF on the mannequin's neck. Fill the blue body by comparing the bright sheen of the velvet with its dark folds. It is worth trying at up to 100 pieces.