Jacket

An 1887 man's sleeveless jacket with red leather flowers and glass ornaments applied over a ground of swirling black wool. Full commentary ↓

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Jacket is a textile by an unknown maker (1887) in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. It measures 55.9 cm.

Jacket — Unknown artist

In the pictureThis short sleeveless jacket is shown on a mannequin. The whole body is covered with swirl and loop patterns that look like black wool yarn wound and stitched on, with the off-white ground showing through the gaps. On the chest and lower part are eight-petaled flowers cut from red leather, each with a gold button set at its center. The front edges are bordered with a red leather band and a teal band, and the jacket closes with two knot buttons. At the lower front are red and green glass ornaments, and on each side is a pierced red leather pocket flap. Red wool pompoms are dotted here and there over the body.

BackgroundAccording to the record, there are six materials, leather, wool, glass, metal, hair, and silk; it is 55.9 cm long at the back and is classified as men's outerwear. Unlike most of the other folk costumes on this site, which are dated broadly, as in "late 19th century," this one is dated to a single year, 1887. Decorating leather with cut and applied colored leather is known as a technique of Hungarian and Romanian leatherworkers. It was acquired on the Brooklyn Museum expedition of 1920–21, and its accession number runs in sequence with that of a sheepskin jacket (2009.300.51) from the same expedition. The Met's record also includes old black-and-white photographs in addition to color photos of the front and back.

Puzzle tipThe black ground and red patterns are distinct, so it is on the easier side. First join the red and teal bands of the front edges vertically, and close off the top with the pierced collar at the neck. The large red flowers on either side of the chest are symmetrical, so once one side is done the other follows. The line of red wool running above the hem marks the lower boundary. Fill the spaces between with the black swirl pieces, and leave the white mannequin and gray background for last. 48 pieces suits it.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art ↗

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