Kurta

An Indian kurta of dark brown silk densely embroidered with grids and circles, anchored by a large embroidered panel running from chest to waist. Full commentary ↓

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Kurta is a textile by an unknown maker (19th century) in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Kurta — Unknown artist

In the pictureA long tunic of dark brown silk is dressed on a mannequin. Grid-patterned embroidery covers the shoulders and chest, and below it a large embroidered panel of overlapping circles runs down to the waist. The sleeves are short, and there is an embroidered band at the hem as well. The embroidery threads are white, red and brown.

BackgroundThe kurta is a long tunic worn throughout South Asia, and the embroidery on the chest panel sets the garment's status. The grid and circle patterns here are seen in the embroidery of western India and the Sindh region of Pakistan, which sometimes also included small pieces of mirror. Using light thread on a dark ground is a way of making the embroidery stand out.

Puzzle tipThe embroidered pieces and the dark ground pieces are clearly distinct. Fit the circle-patterned pieces of the chest panel first, then set top and bottom with the grid pieces at the shoulders and the band at the hem. Fill in the dark brown pieces starting with those that touch the mannequin's outline. 100 pieces is a good fit.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art ↗

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