Mantle

In the pictureA knee-length coat is draped on a black mannequin. On the cream wool ground, a wide front collar runs from the shoulders to the hem, and the collar, sleeves, and hem are edged with layered bands of red felt and black stripes. Between them, bouquets and feathery leaf patterns are embroidered in purple and red thread. On either side of a silver buckle at the center of the chest hang two black leather straps punched with holes, and red round ornaments are attached at the shoulders, sleeves, and hem. The sleeves are short and wide, reaching the elbow, with red loop buttons at the ends.

BackgroundThe record lists the materials as wool, leather, and metal, gives a back length of 116.8cm, and classifies it as a man's outer garment. Its form, thick wool with embroidery, fastened with leather straps and a buckle, resembles the szűr, the coat of Hungarian herdsmen, which was often worn draped over the shoulders without putting the arms through the sleeves. The collection record gives no region. Unlike the other mantle on this site (1840–70), whose front is filled with rose embroidery, this coat leaves wide areas of cream ground and divides them with striped bands. The Brooklyn Museum acquired it on its 1920–21 European collecting expedition.

Puzzle tipThe red and black striped bands run along the edges of the garment, which makes the outline easy to establish. Place the silver buckle and the two leather straps in the center first, then connect the front collar bands from top to bottom. The purple bouquet embroidery is concentrated on the sleeves and the corners of the hem, a clue for matching left and right. Fill the wide cream areas using the shadows of the folds. Fill the black mannequin and gray background last. 100 pieces is a good fit.