Festive Dress from Quteife

In the pictureA red cotton dress is dressed on a mannequin. Below a low standing collar, the front opening is faced with purplish fabric and embroidered with a cream sawtooth pattern. The sleeves flare wide and then hang down long and pointed; geometric embroidery in pink, orange, green and purple thread follows the cuffs and hanging edges, and a small tassel hangs from each point. From thigh height to the hem, two columns of embroidery built up in tiers of lozenges and chevrons run side by side, and small flowering sprigs rise from the tops of the columns. Below the chest, a seam joining the bodice horizontally is visible.

BackgroundThe Met's record attributes this dress to the village of Quteife in the Qalamoun region of Syria, dating it from around 1900 to the early 20th century. The materials are cotton and silk, embroidered on a plain-weave ground; metallic thread is not listed. No measurements are recorded. It was purchased in 1969 with funds from the Irene Lewisohn Bequest. Whereas a cream linen dress (86243), also attributed to the Qalamoun region, gathers its embroidery in a broad panel in the center front, this one distributes its color on a red ground between two narrow columns and the sleeves.

Puzzle tipThe red ground is large, but the embroidered areas are distinct. Stack the two embroidered columns from bottom to top to form a central axis, and anchor the top with the purplish neck opening and the brass knob, each the only one in the picture. After setting the outlines on either side with the pointed sleeve tips and tassel pieces, tell left from right in the hanging parts of the sleeves by the slope of the embroidered bands running diagonally down them, and fill in the remaining red pieces using the shadows of the folds and the side seams. 100 pieces is about right.