Jacket

In the pictureThis is a long-sleeved leather jacket on a mannequin. Curly fleece is attached to the inside of the cream leather, so the fleecy side shows at the neckline, along the diagonally overlapping front, and at the cuffs. On each side of the chest, small patterned buttons are set closely on a panel of crisscrossed black cord, more than ten silver ball-shaped buttons line up in a row along its edge, and black tassels hang on the outside like feathers. The forearms are embroidered with droplet and leaf patterns in green, red, and purple thread. The neckline is cut round with no collar, and red and green wool pompoms hang from the front closure loops.

BackgroundThe record lists the materials as leather, wool, metal, glass, and silk; the back length is short, at 49.5cm, and it is classified as a man's outer garment. Jackets of sheepskin worn with the fleece inside and the outer surface decorated were winter clothing in the Eastern European countryside, and those worn for festivals were richly decorated like this with buttons, tassels, and embroidery. The front overlaps diagonally and is fastened with loops bearing wool pompoms. Several layers of leather bands circle the hem and lower sleeves. Where an 1887 jacket from the same expedition is a sleeveless black garment, this one has long sleeves and shows its cream leather. It was collected on the Brooklyn Museum's 1920–21 expedition.

Puzzle tipThe two rows of silver ball buttons are the clearest vertical guidelines. Assemble these two rows and the black tassels outside them first, then connect the space between with the diagonal fleece front in the middle. For the sleeves, set top and bottom by the colored embroidery on the forearms and the fleece cuffs at the wrists. Stains and creases are clues for the cream leather pieces, and the gray background goes last. It is a wide picture, so the ends of the sleeves come near the left and right edges. 48 pieces is a good fit.