Mantle
A man's coat of cream wool from 1840–70, its front and hanging sleeves covered with vermilion rose embroidery and trimmed with long leather tassels. Full commentary ↓
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Mantle is a textile by an unknown maker (1840–70) in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. It measures 125.7 cm.
In the pictureA wide coat is draped on a black mannequin. Both sides of the front and the sleeves hanging from the shoulders are covered almost without a gap in round vermilion roses on a ground of green leaves, and the edges are bound with a vermilion band patterned in white thread. The sleeves hang unworn at either side of the body like square panels. Leather cords are tied to two round ornaments on the chest, and long leather tassels, cut and punched with holes, hang down past the hem. There is a hole in the wool at the shoulder on the right side of the picture. The neck is finished with a low standing vermilion collar. A few round, flower-shaped ornaments are attached at the top of the sleeve panels.
BackgroundThe records list the materials as wool, leather and cotton, give the back length as 125.7 cm, and classify it as a man's outer garment. A heavy wool coat worn draped over the shoulders without the arms through the sleeves is the same type as the szűr of Hungarian herdsmen, and heavily embroidered ones were called "cifraszűr" (decorated szűr). It was collected on a 1922 expedition by the Brooklyn Museum. Compared with the other mantle on this site (late 19th century, 116.8 cm), it is earlier and about 9 cm longer, and it differs in that rose embroidery fills the front instead of striped bands. There is no metal among the materials, so the round ornaments on the chest also appear to be made of leather or cloth.
Puzzle tipVermilion roses and green leaves fill the picture and the pieces look alike, so first set up the rectangular outlines of the front and the sleeve panels with the vermilion border bands. The black mannequin in the middle, the round ornaments on the chest and the two strands of leather tassels hanging below differ in color and quickly find their places. Fill in the rose embroidery from near the bands inward. The cream wool showing above the shoulders and the hole mark the two upper corners. The wooden stand and gray background come last. 100 pieces is a good fit.
- Classification
- Outerwear-Menswear
- Medium
- wool, leather, cotton
- Dimensions
- 125.7 cm
- Credit line
- Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Museum Expedition 1922, Robert B. Woodward Memorial Fund, 1922
Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art ↗
Stories about this work
- Hungarian Shepherds' Winter Clothes, Part 2: Four More From the Same Expedition
Four Eastern European garments collected by a Brooklyn Museum expedition in the early 1920s that we could not include last time. A sheepskin jacket and Romanian blouses.
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